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PPD (p-Phenylenediamine) is the worst dye you can use in hair color if you are worried about allergic reactions and contact dermatitis. That's why Mastey hair color with no ammonia and no ppd is the stylist choice for gentler color processes.

Based on studies conducted in multiple EU countries on the use of PPD in hair color: PPD is 2 to 5 times worse than the alternative toluene 2,5 diamine sulfate used in Mastey Hair Color.

Mastey made the decision 5 years ago to no longer use p-Phenylenediamine (PPDs) in our mastey hair color formulations. The reason for our decision is based on the toxicity and allergy reaction rates of both hair dressers and consumers to PPD dyes in independent studies. The facts are the facts, and no corporate marketing or internet based defamation campaign by competitors can change the fact that PPD has the highest reaction percentage among both hair dressers and consumers, the highest allergy rate, and has the highest toxicity level.

Let’s learn a little about how companies use dyes in hair color and about the research that has been done by the US and the EU on hair color pigments and their safety and use.

Permanent Hair Color

Hair color manufacturers produce permanent hair dye products that when combined with hydrogen peroxide will cause the hair cuticle to open and allow for the depositing of artificial dyes into the hair shaft. These dyes react with the peroxide and oxidize (grow in size) to lodge themselves in the hair. Once the hair color has processed, the hair is washed and the cuticle closed down trapping those new artificial dyes in the hair, this covers the gray and can provide a new color or tone to the clients hair. Most manufacturers will have a combination of oxidative dyes and direct dye (stains) in their color formulations. These dye combinations have there benefits in easier gray coverage, but have disadvantages when it comes to build up, color darkening, off tone fading, and other negatives.

Manufacturers have choices in what dyes or chemicals to use in making their hair color products. Those choices are what makes one manufacturer and product different from another.

We choose to not subject our stylists or their clients to the harmful effects of ppd.

In recent years a lot of focus has been placed on two ingredients and their effects on hair stylists and their clients. The alkaline agent Ammonia and the colorant or dye PPD. As you have already learned Mastey Hair Color has no ammonia and no PPD. You can learn more about what we use instead of ammonia here.

The Mastey Difference

Mastey Hair color uses only oxidative dye pigments in our permanent hair color formulations. We have made this choice for a number of reasons.

  1. Oxidative dyes will not build up like stain dyes so they will never go darker than the desired level and tone
  2. The use of all oxidative dyes makes Mastey hair color look reflective like natural hair color. It is not matte or translucent but instead looks and feels natural.
  3. By using the proper combination of all oxidative dyes we are able to provide the client with unlimited choices in hair color results that always look healthy, shiny, soft, and beautiful.
  4. Our formulas cover gray hair 100% without PPD or stain dyes (direct dyes).

Choosing the right oxidative dyes

Mastey has chosen what we feel is the best combination of oxidative dyes available today that will still perform and provide the needed results for the stylist and client. We DO NOT USE PPD in any color formulation due to the toxicity and allergy reaction rates of both hair dressers and consumers.

Unfortunately nothing is perfect and there is not yet a Hair Color Utopia or an Organic Hair Color

There are a number of different ingredients in hair color that a stylist or consumers may be allergic to, you have to remember that permanent hair color, no matter whom you purchase it from is still a chemical formulation with a purpose. PPD is the dye ingredient with the highest allergy rate and toxicity in permanent hair color today. That said if you have had allergic reactions to hair color in the past, we still recommend that you do a patch test regardless of what new hair color you would like to try. You may think you are allergic to PPD, but you also may be allergic to something else.

Mastey Hair Color is used by eco conscious stylists around the world.

Mastey Hair color is sold and distributed around the world. Every new market we enter; our products are tested and evaluated by the particular country’s Health Ministry. (Like there version of an FDA). The products and formulas are independently evaluated and our formulations are inspected and tested to make sure they are of the highest quality and meet the standards as set forth by the country’s Health Ministry.

Mastey Hair color is available for sale in the USA, Canada, the European Union, Australia, Asia, and the Middle East. Countries and regions with very high standards and strict guidelines for ingredient use.

See a complete list of the Mastey Hair Color ingredients

To help you get through the different opinions on PPD and other ingredients we have put together a few independent facts and links for you to look at.

Facts about p-phenalyndiamine, toulene 2,5 diamine, and toluene2,5 diamine sulfate
Based on EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS)

  • p-Phenalundiamine (PPD) Highest reaction percentage, Alergy cases, and toxicity
  • Toluene 2,5 diamine (PTD) Lower than PPD, Higher than 25TDS.
  • Toluene 2,5 diamine sulfate (25TDS) [What we use] Lowest reaction percentage, allergy cases, and toxicity of the above 3 ingredients used in hair color.

U.S. Cosmetic Industry Review (US panel of experts on cosmetic ingredients)

Based on available data, and the reported use of these ingredients only as components in hair dye products, the CIR Expert Panel concluded that Toluene-2,5-Diamine and Toluene-2,5-Diamine Sulfate were safe for use as hair dye ingredients.

For more information on the CIR: Cosmetic Ingredients found safe as used (February 2012)
Cometic & Toiletries Science Applied article that mentions CIR expert panel assessment of toluene-2,5-diamine sulfate

European Union Studies

In the European Union Cosmetics Directive, Toluene-2,5-Diamine and Toluene-2,5-Diamine Sulfate are restricted for use in oxidizing types of hair dyes at a maximum concentration of 10% as a free base in the finished product (see Annex III).
Excerpts from European Commission of Health and Consumers Scientific Committees Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) report:

Based on studies conducted in multiple EU countries on the use of PPD in hair color

PPD is 5X worse

66 dermatitis patients (hairdressers) were patch tested with the North American patch test standard tray and a hairdresser series. 7.5% were positive to toluene-2,5-diamine sulfate, 46% were positive to p-phenylenediamine, 5% to p-aminodiphenylamine, 3% to o-nitro-pphenylenediamine. (Table 1)

PPD is 3X worse

106 dermatitis patients (hairdressers) in Greece (102 females and 4 males) were patch tested with the patch test standard series and the hairdressers’ series. 10.3% were positive to toluene-2,5-diamine sulfate, 30.2% were positive to p-phenylenediamine, 8.4% to onitro-p-phenylenediamine, 4.7% to resorcinol, 4.3% to p-aminodiphenylamine, 2.8% to paminophenol. (Table 1)

PPD is 2X worse

In a multi-centre study by the European Environmental and Contact Dermatitis Research Group (EECDRG), a total of 809 dermatitis patients (hairdressers) were patch tested with hairdresser allergens in 9 centres. 7.6% were positive to toluene-2,5-diamine sulfate, 14.8% to p-phenylenediamine, 4.1% to o-nitro-p-phenylenediamine, 0.6% to resorcinol and 3.6% to p-aminodiphenylamine hydrochloride (Table 1).

In the same study, a total of 104 dermatitis patients identified as hairdressers’ clients were patch tested with hairdresser allergens in 4 centres. 8.7% were positive to toluene-2,5-diamine sulfate, 19.2% to p-phenylenediamine, 7.7% to o-nitro-p-phenylenediamine, 1.9% to resorcinol and 3.9% to p-aminodiphenylamine hydrochloride (Table 4).

PPD is 2.5X worse

In a multi-centre study by the German Contact Dermatitis Group (DKG), 178 dermatitis patients (hairdressers) were patch tested with hairdressers’ allergens in 11 centres. 18.0% were test positive to toluene-2,5-diamine, 8.4% to toluene-2,5-diamine sulfate, 18.0% to p-phenylenediamine base, 0.6% to resorcinol, 1.1% to 3-aminophenol, 2.2% to paminodiphenylamine hydrochloride, 3.4% to 4-aminophenol and 6.2% to o-nitro-pphenylenediamine. (Table 1)

In all publications (except ref Holm), results from patch testing with p-phenylenediamine is given and in several publications also results from tests with additional hair dye substances. In the majority of publications, the rate of contact allergy to p-phenylenediamine was the highest…

Download the EU PPD Report

As you can see there are many opinions and reports out there on the use of hair color dyes. At Mastey we choose to use the ingredients with the least toxicity that still can do the job of permanent hair color. We are also very conservative in their use and our usage percentages fall far below the international quantity recomendations.

If you have any questions on Mastey Hair Color or our selection of ingredients you can reach us by phone at 1.800.662.7839 or via email at color@mastey.com

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