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The 6 steps to perfect hair color with Mastey

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The 6 steps to perfect hair color

The best solution for getting beautiful hair color results and 100% gray coverage on every client is to pay extra special attention to what you do before, during, and after the hair color process.

Mastey hair color will give you healthy beautiful results and 100% gray coverage on 90 to 95% of your clients. The last 5% to 10% of your clients are usually clients with hair loss and hair damage issues that you need to troubleshoot. You can take a look at our 100% gray coverage video for tips, tricks and best practices when dealing with hard to cover gray hair; and our Advance Hair Color Formulations Video for helping your color challenged clients get amazing results.

Here is a checklist of best practices that we have found work best from stylists around the world regardless of water condition, weather, or location.

1. Proper Preparation


Think about when you paint a wall in your house or paint a picture on a canvas. If you use a primer first then your paint will be more vibrant and more true to what you are looking to produce.

It is the same with hair color. But your preparation is not a primer per say, it is making sure the hair is clean and free of build up from unwanted chemicals, minerals, or left over hair products.

When you use Mastey Hair Color we recommend you wash the clients hair with Use Me First Hair Purifier.


Use Me First is a hair purifier not a clarifier, the difference being that there are no solvents or sulfates in Use Me First, and because of the gentle ingredients it will not pull any color or damage or irritate the hair or scalp before the color service. It works like a magnet to attach itself to the build up and then it is washed right out of the hair leaving a clean and primed canvas for your hair color service.

Can I apply color to wet hair?

Yes you can apply color to towel dried hair. Think about it like a sponge, a damp sponge can pick up a spill faster than a dry sponge. In the same way towel dried hair will take color better.

2. Proper Formulation


Pick the right colors

Make sure you are using the right color and developer choices to achieve the results you are looking for.

With resistant gray coverage, using a double zero will be a good starting point. You can add other tones to the double zero if you would like a warmer or cooler result. Our chocolate shades are very popular for this purpose.

What about reds?

When a customer wants red (.6) but has a lot of gray, you need to add gold (.3) to your formula. The gold (.3) helps cover the plain white hair and gets you complete coverage.

What if I am out of double zero?

Here is a simple gray coverage formula. You are out of your 6.00 (6 Double Natural) and your client has just arrived. With Mastey Hair Color you can make this 6.00 by using 1 part 6.0 (Natural), 1 part 5.0 (Natural), and 1 part 5.3 (GOLD).

Pick the right developer

Use 20 Volume with gray formulas as a starting point. This works for 90%-95% of your clients.

Sometimes you need to vary your developer choice based on the hair texture or what exactly you are trying to accomplish. Remember to keep your clients formula updated and make sure that you keep track of what makes their formulations better.

For example in Hawaii, 20 volume will not cover the corse hawaiian and Japanese hair. Hawaiian stylists use 25 or 30 Volume on their clients to get the best coverage.

Remember if you go higher in developer choice you should drop down in color choice by a half level to 1 level to get the best of both worlds.

The power of the developer to help open the compact cuticle and the power of the lower color choice to get you the perfect coverage and depth you are looking for.

This also works in reverse. In the midwest many stylists use 15 volume on their gray coverage clients because the fine hair is easier to cover.

3. Proper Application


Use clean and thin partings.

It's that easy, using thin partings lets you make sure that you actually cover the gray when you are applying your color.

Also be careful to avoid brushing off color as you continue to work the same section with your brush. Make sure you apply very well in a thin section and then move on to the next section.

4. Proper Saturation


Use enough color.

Don't worry about using too much more than normal, and if you do use a little more and your coverage is better, then maybe you were not using enough in the first place.

5. Proper Timing


For Mastey Hair Color we recommend 45 minutes processing.

You can process your clients at room temperature.

If you are looking for more lift or are working on a hard to cover gray client, you can use low heat during the first 15 minutes of the processing time. This will not speed up the color process, it will only help open the cuticle giving your color more power to work. The last 30 minutes should be processed at room temperature.

6. Proper Rinsing

Make sure you wash the color out properly.

We recommend you wash out with warm water and that you emulsify. The color will begin to produce a small lather as you emulsify it out of the hair. Then use warm water to rinse the color completely out of the hair. You then shampoo and condition as you normally would do.

Every hair color done with Mastey Hair Color will be soft, vibrant and shiny.


If for some reason when you go to dry the hair it does not look vibrant, feel soft, or look shiny, it means there is still color residue on the hair. Return to the bowl and wash it out again.

Follow these 6 easy steps and you will love your color results every single time. Even on the most difficult clients.

Let us know what you think! Visit and Like us on Facebook!

Or Email color@mastey.com if you have questions, comments, or ideas for future posts.

If you would like to try a free sample of Mastey Hair Color in your salon. Give us a call at 800.662.7839 ext 247 or email erick@mastey.com


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