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Creating Custom Hair Colors with No Ammonia and No PPD - Mastey Hair Color

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Creating Custom Hair Colors
with No Ammonia and No PPD

Stylists have the ability to create hair colors to match current hair color trends or their clients specific tastes just by varying their color choices and percentages in formulation.

The idea for this post started with a conversation with one of our Organic Salon customers in Colorado. They were out of stock on a particular shade and a customer was coming in for that specific color the next morning.

We thought it would be a great idea to explain the process of duplicating a shade in this post and then expand a little on how to create shades for more customized looks.

The shade we need to make is Mastey Hair Color 8.34 which is a level 8 light chocolate brown.

When we look at this color we see that 8.34 is:

Level 8

Primary tone: 3 which is GOLD

Secondary tone: 4 which is COPPER

When it comes to the Mastey no ammonia no ppd hair colors you can assume that the primary tone is going to be 2/3 of the formulation and the secondary tone is going to be 1/3 of the formulation. So in order to make 8.34 you would use:

2/3 of the formula as 8.3

1/3 of the formula as 8.4

For example to make 60 mL of 8.34 you would use

40 mL of 8.3

20 mL of 8.4

You would then pair this color formulation with your developer choice, in this case 20 Volume (6% in the EU).

Now that you know how to create an existing color you can use this knowledge to create colors that may not be already mixed for you. Mastey hair color comes in 92 pre mixed shades and 8 amplifiers for a total of 100 color choices. All these shades are intermixable so they can be used to create unlimited shades for you to use.

What if we have gray hair or we want to add more depth to the color while keeping a beautiful tone.

Sometimes we encounter customers with hard to cover gray hair, those customers need special formulas that will both cover the gray/white hair, but also give you a healthy beautiful tone.

In the formula above we could easily modify it by adding a little bit of our .0 (natural) series into the formula.

For hard to cover gray our formula may look like this:


40 mL of 8.3 Mastey Hair Color

20 mL of 8.4 Mastey Hair Color

10 mL of 8.0 Mastey Hair Color

70 mL of 20 Volume Mastey Cream Developer

This formula will give you a rich beautiful level 8 chocolate brown color with a nice amount of depth to cover the gray, but not so much that it would look muddy or drab.

You can use the above technique to create many beautiful color combinations or to modify existing shades to create personalized colors for your clients.

Join us next time as we talk a little more about creating colors and learn how to manipulate our colors with Mastey hair color amplifiers.

Do you want your hair color to last longer? Check out our new Vegan and Gluten Free Mastey Color Protecting hair care with a unique combination of Argan Oil, Olive Oil, and Grape Seed Extract.

If you have any questions about hair color formulations or comments on this post send me an email at: erick@mastey.com or give us a call at 800.6.MASTEY that's 800.662.7839

Quick note: you can use this same technique to create colors in any color line, but make sure you contact that color manufacturer to get the proportions they use between primary and secondary tones. By using this quick and easy trick you can customize your clients colors and real wow them with great results.


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