Posted by Erick Calderon on September 28, 2015
As a hair colorist in the salon you will encounter plenty of situations that will have you scratching your head wondering:
Honey, who did that to you and how am I going to fix it now?
It's in those moments that you not only pray for guidance but you also reach into your past experiences to come up with a solution. This article and video are here to help you when you have a client with damaged bleached hair that wants to go back to her virgin medium brown hair color roots. A brown hair color that is not too green (ash) and doesn't have too much red (warmth). Oh, and in case she didn't tell you, she usually needs to be out of the salon in an hour or so...
Note: If the hair is really damaged from previous bleach jobs you can do a reconstructive mask treatment in the salon and also recommend they read this article on how to regrow their hair in a healthy way.
Enjoy this video and read on to access the formulas and PDF downloads of our 1 step tint back system and hair repair procedures. And let us know if we can get your salon a free sample of our No PPD No Ammonia Gluten Free Hair Color.
As you saw from the video this procedure and article is aimed at helping you, the hairstylist, to formulate one hair color formula that will do the job of a multiple process application in one step. By following the steps in this video and article you will learn how to formulate a beautiful 1 step tint back formula that will quickly and easily turn your bleached blondes into rich and natural looking brunettes.
A great place to start our learning is to understand that no matter what hair color you are trying to make, in reality it is a shade of brown.
As you examine the colors above you should notice and understand that whether it is a level 1.07 Black or a level 11.0 Super Ultra Light Platinum Blonde, in reality all these colors are a shade of brown. The lower levels being dark browns and then moving up to our lighter levels being lighter browns. First you need to understand this concept. Then you can quickly understand that as you try to create colors you will need to come from a place of making brown first, and then modifying that brown to be the desired tonal value you would like.
Bonus tip: Using this concept in reverse you can also deduce what will happen as hair is lightened. In that process you are pulling out color in a specific order and what is left over is known as remaining pigment. Learn more about that in our High Lift color class.
The laws of color are rules that you originally learn as children when working with finger paints and crayons. It's a simple law that dictates what happens when 2 or more colors are mixed together. So for example if you mix yellow with blue you will always make a green. Depending on how much of each color you mix determines the shade of the final color you create. So if you mix more yellow than blue you get a yellow green, and if you mix more blue than yellow you get a Blue green. When you look at this law you need to realize that it is fixed and your ability to modify colors should be guided by these constraints. This means that by understanding this law you can learn to bend the rules in your favor.
When you are dealing with hair color the most important thing to remember when formulating is that you are always trying to make a shade of brown. So like the brown hair color chart of natural hair levels you saw earlier, you are trying to make a color that will lie within those levels.
When you mix equal parts of the primary colors you will make a brown. Equal parts of Red, Blue and Yellow create a brown.
The next thing to realize is that equal parts of the secondary colors mixed together also make a brown. So if you mix a Green, Purple, and Orange together you will make a brown.
By combining your knowledge of the color wheel and using the appropriate color shades you can create any color you desire.
Once you know what these color numbers mean you can apply them to the color wheel.
And since the laws of color are fixed rules, you can make any color you desire by mixing the proper shades together.
Pretty easy right?
Making this connection and then applying it to actual hair color is the game changer and your entry into becoming a true hair colorist. You realize that in order to turn a blonde into a brunette you need to include all of the 3 primary colors. To turn that dry brittle blonde into a new gorgeous brown that looks deep, shiny, healthy, and full you have to make sure you have included all the pigments needed to give it that natural and beautiful finished look.
Traditionally stylists were taught that when they are dying a color back from blonde to brown they would have to do a 2 step process and then pray that it didn't fade too fast. The first step involved dying the hair with a semi permanent copper color, letting it process, rinsing, and then applying a permanent color formula over that original process. If you were worried about fadage then you could also apply a 3 rd process as a toner/sealer to try to get the hair color to last.
The problems with this approach have bothered stylist and customers for years. First the color will fade very fast. Since the hair was died previous to the permanent color with a semi permanent that contains direct dyes when the permanent color fades the direct dyes are still there but they are copper so the color fades off tone. So the client is very unhappy and the stylist's work looks horrible even after investing all that time and effort.
The alternative to this has been for stylists to just grab a shade of color and try to dye the blonde hair straight away. This brings even worse results as the hair ends up looking hollow and muddy. Or clients complain of the hair looking green or too ashy.
So after a lot of trial and error a group of Mastey Stylists came up with this awesome color recipe for creating tint back formulas that will turn your bleach blondes into stunning brunettes in 1 easy to make formula. And of course the concept for it goes back to those laws of color.
Examine your Bleach Blonde model to see what you have. Usually in this situation you will have dry and damaged blonde hair with a lot of breakage and split ends. Since you are a trained Mastey Colorist you will know that right off the bat you have two problems you need to solve.
The first thing you need to solve is the damage problem. This is where you use our Mastey Color Protecting Reconstructing Treatment Plan.
The MCP Restorative Mask is rich in Vegan Natural Moisture Factors to help regulate the hair's moisture level to optimum state. It also contains Gluten Free Rice Amino Acids to help rebuild the cistine bonds in the damaged hair. By doing this treatment before the hair color service you will have a healthier canvas to apply your color to.
Now that the hair has been properly rebuilt it's time to color it to it's new beautiful brown. When we go to formulate we know that we will need to use all 3 primary colors to create a brown shade. And we also know that once we make that brown shade we will want to give it a nice beautiful tone. Lets do it in 1 easy step!
By Looking at the colors on this you will be using:
We will be advising that you use a .34 CHOCOLATE as your target shade. This tone gives you a beautiful Virgin hair color dimensional look in your tint back formulas.
Remember that the 2 mistakes made in tint backs in previous color lines are getting them too green (ash) or too warm (red or copper). By using the .34 CHOCOLATE you are guaranteed a beautiful finish with a beautiful natural tone.
For a level 10 or higher blonde that wants to be a Level 7
½ ounce 7.0 (blue)
¼ ounce 7.6 (red)
½ ounce 7.3 (yellow)
1 ounce 7.34 (chocolate)
2 ¼ ounce 10 Volume
For a level 9 or higher blonde that wants to be a Level 6
½ ounce 6.0 (blue)
¼ ounce 6.6 (red)
½ ounce 6.3 (yellow)
1 ounce 6.34 (chocolate)
2 ¼ ounce 10 Volume
For a level 8 or higher blonde that wants to be a Level 5
½ ounce 5.0 (blue)
¼ ounce 5.6 (red)
½ ounce 5.3 (yellow)
1 ounce 5.34 (chocolate)
2 ¼ ounce 10 Volume
For a level 7 or higher blonde that wants to be a Level 4
½ ounce 4.0 (blue)
¼ ounce 4.6 (red)
½ ounce 4.3 (yellow)
1 ounce 4.34 (chocolate)
2 ¼ ounce 10 Volume
We recommend that you follow these formula instructions to the letter without deviation until you understand exactly why they work. Once you have used the formulas on a few tint backs and watch this video you can start to modify your formulation slightly to get the desired result you are looking for.
Where these tint backs start to get really awesome is when you start to incorporate the existing left over yellow in the hair into your formula. Using the existing blonde areas you can create dimensional color by just adding your 1 Step Tint Back Formula all over the hair. The color will pick up darker on the dark areas and slightly lighter on the bleached areas providing a beautiful dimensional color similar to natural virgin hair.
Check out the after pictures for our Model Brooke:
And this my dear stylists gets you the end result that you and your client were looking for. Getting to a natural virgin brown hair color that has light reflection like when your client was a child and had untouched natural hair color.
Try this tint back formula today and make your clients not only happy customers but customers that will refer you a ton of business.
Thanks for reading this post and watching this video. Be sure to email us if you have any questions or would like to try a free sample of Mastey no ppd no ammonia hair color.
If you watch the entire video you will also learn about how to make custom colors using our permanent colors mixed with our all oxidative dye color amplifiers.